1989 Tokaji Aszú 6 puttonyos
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"Dániel Szabó is an old-fashioned winemaker, which means that in the divided wine world of Tokaj, his work provokes approval on the one hand, and denial on the other. As you know, here in Tokaj it's not just about whether I approve or deny someone's work. After the regime change, a new taste direction appeared in the production of Tokaji wine: in addition to the traditional long-aged-oxidized, darker-hued Tokaji wines, lighter, fresh, fruity-smelling wines using expensive reductive technology also appeared. The representatives of the two styles normally scold each other, but we refrain from taking a partisan position here, mainly because the aszú in question seems to rise above this debate. The writer of these lines has also encountered terrible old Tokaj wines, whose green walnut taste, oiliness, high, avinated (subsequently added) alcohol and emptiness were surprising, but this week's wine is a beautiful wine, with no trace of heavy, brown oiliness. Nice, clean, non-fruity, botrytis-like aroma, dark amber color, in which the red of copper seems to flash. The significant extract makes the caramel-flavored wine slow-moving, in which the high level of acid-alcohol-sugar balance seems almost effortless. There is nothing difficult or intrusive, although it is not too complex either, the wine in question ultimately converges towards younger, lighter, different style wines. This beautiful Tokaj can function as a remedy on a dreary autumn evening, but it can also be paired well with pastries, fruits, blue cheeses and foie gras dishes - as László Alkonyi writes in his beautiful Tokaj book, "in the end result, a brilliant aszú can be a great accompaniment to any dish"."