1961 Tokaji Aszú 5 puttonyos
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The wine trading company Brüder Buchner, founded in 1906, was one of the most important importers of Tokaji to the west during the second half of the 20th century. They became purveyor to the court of Chieftain Thurn & Taxis in 1927.
"... The bold, rich nose feels pungent, somewhat oxidative and slightly Madeirized with layered aromas of smoke, chocolate dressing, some syrupy molasses, light nutty notes of rancio, a little bit of split mahogany and a hint of burnt sugar. Although very old, the nose feels still quite attractive and captivating. The wine is rich, sweet and full-bodied with very tertiary yet quite lively flavors of syrupy molasses, caramel, tangy salinity, some smoky tones, a little bit of burnt sugar bitterness, light bruised apple tones, a hint of poached pear and a touch of nutty rancio. The overall feel is very sweet and somewhat sticky, but the ridiculously racy acidity lends outrageous freshness and sense of electricity to the wine, making it feel very precise and structured. The finish is remarkably lengthy with rich, complex and very tertiary flavors of syrupy molasses, some burnt sugar bitterness, a little bit of tart lemony citrus fruits, light bruised apple tones, a hint of stony minerality and a subtle yet persistent touch of tangy salinity ... The oxidative notes and the almost electric acidity lend an almost Madeira-like feel to the wine, although the body and mouthfeel are that of a great Tokaji - remarkably light and delicate for a wine this powerful and sweet. Although the wine has a somewhat rustic nature that seems to be true of so many Tokajis made during the Soviet rule, this is anything but a simple, one-note dessert wine - how many dismiss the wines made during the Soviet rule ... 94 Points."