1993 Tokaji Aszú Eszencia
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Production: Only 240 bottles!
"Complex, smoky scent of dried fruit, fruits in rum and malt with oxidative notes. Dense, spicy fruit with fine acidity, very concentrated, smoky, lots of malt and dried fruit on the palate, mineral notes, huge presence and sustainability, great depth, delicate oxidative notes in the background, haunting, with enormous, long caramel. Until 2060. (8.5 A, 240 bottles were produced)."
"A selection from a parcel (closer to the top of the hill, if I remember correctly, which doesn''t mean much given Danczka''s elevation) of old vines that Szepsy decided to vinify separately, in part simply because, I believe, the Aszú dry berries could be picked earlier... after all Szepsy told me that he had not initially planned to market this but had wanted to hold on to it as a reserve for his children... When I asked Szepsy about its relative quality, he answered that lower acidity for his early wines usually meant balance thanks to higher residual sugar and acidity, "so in principle a better wine"... Amber-orange, perhaps a tiny bit more deeply Cognac-coloured than the standard Danczka Dülö bottling? More closed than that wine on the nose, hence oakier and dried-fruitier, no doubt a phase, one I distinctly remember the previous wine used to be in a year or two ago. More Cognac-tinged candied apricot. At once more concentrated, more intense, denser as well as sweeter; although the biggest and most structured, and perhaps most primary (this still has some of the smokiness of young Aszú), of Szepsy''s four 1993 AEs, on top of it all it's clearly the most balanced also. Better on the palate than on the nose today, complex, typically old-viney deep, nicely sweet and very, very long, with additional viscosity on the finish... The most complete of all? No doubt of the Szepsy AEs. Rather less huge and overwhelming, while not necessarily fresher or racier, than the standard Danczka Dülö bottling. With prolonged airing tobacco ash, licorice stick, candied tangerine and tangerine rind, very sweet but with higher acidity, oilier but not less viscous than the standard Danczka Dülö bottling, more complex and deep."
... stands apart from the hills that comprise the Zemplén mountain range. It is shaped like a breadloaf and has a long southern slope. Heavy clay soil allows the vines to easily obtain water and essential nutrients, helping the berries reach full maturity. Rolling fogs out of the Bodrog and Tisza rivers contribute to the over-ripening of the fruit stimulating botrytis development, adding necessary sweetness and roundness to the wines. The name Danczka refers to the owntime ownership by the Baltic port city of Danzig (Gdańsk, Poland). Although the town was largely German, and mostly consumed wines from German lands, its position as a port city resulted in a strong interest in Tokaji wine as a good to be shipped across the Baltic Sea to Russia and Sweden. Also the town of Eperjes (Prešov, Slovakia) had a vineyard here in 1672.